In the misty mountains and tranquil forests of Japan lies the sacred pilgrimage site of Koyasan, founded by the revered Buddhist monk Kukai in the early 9th century. Whether seeking peace, reflection, or a deep connection to nature, this place offers a unique spiritual journey.
Inside the misty Kii Mountain Range in Wakayama Prefecture, ancient cedar trees form the renowned bathing-forests of Japan. Koyasan, its most famous and sacred mountain, has been a centre of spiritual practice since the early 9th century. For me, as a single mother traveling with two other single mothers and our (collective) seven adventurous children, it was perhaps not the most obvious destination. This journey to Japan is not about the obvious though – it’s a search for peace and connection as we make our way across the country and away from what led us here.
Arriving at Koyasan: Stepping into Another Realm
Our journey to Koyasan begins with a scenic ride from Osaka, involving a few trains, a cable car, and finally a bus. By the time we arrive, fog has rolled in, blanketing the hilltop village in ethereal calm. It feels like stepping into another world. My friend Esme says: “The air itself seems different here—thicker, and charged with something ancient,”
We’re warmly welcomed by the monks at Saimonin Temple, our home for the night.
Shukubo Temple Stay: A Night of Reflection
We slip into yukatas and head to the baths, washing away the day’s weariness. Dinner is an unforgettable experience—simple yet delightful vegetarian Buddhist cuisine. Each dish, from handmade sesame tofu to seasonal vegetables, is cooked over individual fires. “It’s a meal that feels more like a ritual,” I note, “every bite is savored, every flavor rooted in mindfulness.” After dinner, we return to our tatami rooms, where the monks have laid out futon mattresses for the night.
The Morning Ritual: Spiritual Sunrise
IAt dawn, a few of us join the monks for their morning prayers. The Goma ritual is filled with rhythmic chants, swirling incense, and the crackle of a sacred fire. We feel deeply moved. “It’s not just a prayer service—it feels like a portal. A connection between the past and the present”, reflects Justine. Afterward, we heartily enjoy a traditional (albeit vegan) Japanese breakfast before setting out to explore the rest of Koyasan.
Exploring the Village: A Hidden Artist’s Haven
A morning stroll takes us to a quaint artist café, run by foreigners who’ve made Koyasan their home. The mix of traditional and modern life here is fascinating. We sip coffee and browse the village shops filled with incense and temple mementos. I buy incense blessed by the monks, Esme laughs, “I hope we can carry some of this tranquility home!”
Okunoin Cemetery: A Glimpse into Japan’s Spiritual Heart
One of the most profound moments of our trip is visiting Okunoin Cemetery, one of Japan’s largest. The towering cedar trees and moss-covered tombstones create an otherworldly atmosphere. We pay homage at the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, the revered founder of Shingon Buddhism. “It feels like stepping into a realm outside of time,” I think as we wander through the ancient paths, surrounded by thousands of stone stupas and lanterns. “The silence here is sacred, the weight of history tangible.”
Kongobuji Temple: A Window into Shingon Buddhism
Next, we visit Kongobuji Temple, the head temple of the Shingon sect. Its intricate fusuma paintings and serene rock garden offer a peaceful retreat. The temple’s rock garden is like a still moment in time. A place where contemplation comes easily.
Choishi Michi Trail: A Pilgrimage Path Through Nature
Although we don’t have time to hike the Choishi Michi Trail this trip, it’s now on my list for the future. The historic pilgrimage path, lined with ancient stone markers, winds through verdant forests. Whether for a few hours or a few days, this hike offers a deep connection with nature and centuries of spiritual tradition I note, imagining my next visit.
Farewell: Carrying the Spirit of Koyasan
As we leave Koyasan, I carry with me memories of a place that transcends the ordinary. “Koyasan isn’t just a destination—it’s a sanctuary for the soul, a place where serenity and spirituality intertwine,” Justine reflects as we board the train back, the quiet beauty of the countryside slipping by.
For any traveler seeking peace, reflection, and connection, Koyasan is a must-visit. It’s a place where history, spirituality, and nature merge, giving me the chance to pause, breathe, and reconnect—not just with my family, but with myself. “This is the kind of journey that stays with you long after you’ve left,” I think, already planning my return.
How to Get There: A Step-by-Step Guide
- From Osaka:
- Train: Start your journey by taking the Nankai Electric Railway from Namba Station in Osaka to Gokurakubashi Station. The scenic train ride offers beautiful views of the surrounding countryside as you ascend into the mountains.
- Cable Car: From Gokurakubashi, board the Koyasan Cable Car. This short ride will carry you up the steep mountainside to the main station at the top.
- Bus: Upon reaching Koyasan Station, take a bus into the town center, where various temples, including Saimonin Temple, and accommodations are located.
- Travel Time:
- Train from Osaka to Gokurakubashi: Approximately 1 hour 30 minutes.
- Cable Car: Around 5 minutes.
- Bus to Koyasan Town: Roughly 10 minutes.
- Alternative Routes:
- From Kansai International Airport: Take the JR Limited Express train to Namba Station and follow the same train and cable car route.
- By Car: Koyasan is accessible by car, but be aware that parking in town is limited and many roads are narrow.
