Mono no aware: Is the Japanese phrase used to describe the bitter sweet melancholy surrounding the fleeting nature of all things. The concept encourages mindfulness and connection to the only moment that holds any power – this one right now. Mono no aware contains within it the idea that beauty is poignant, delicate and is precious precisely because it is temporary. Through this lens, time is not something to control but to honour, as each passing moment is irreplaceable
Yukako san’s kitchen is very much like her – enigmatic, inviting, multi-layered, and flawlessly put together. Her wagashi-Japanese sweet making space somehow manages to be both modern and quintessentially Japanese. Exquisite ceramic plates are neatly stacked next to handmade wooden tools, curious pots and delicate objets of indeterminate purpose. It is welcoming and functional all at once.
As we roll up our sleeves – figuratively and literally – to prepare for her class, Yukako is making her own final preparations. The muted colours of her obi belt contrast with her spotless white apron. Her kimono (and the effort and time required to wear it) is an unstated and eloquent nod to the reverence with which she regards the tradition and art of wagashi. Also, (I imagine) the respect she has for us as her guests. There is something about that only-in-Japan combination of humility, perfectionism, passion and earnestness that gets me in the feels every time. I feel deeply moved and a little unworthy.
Having eaten my fair share of wagashi over the many years I lived in Japan, I am ashamed to admit I didn’t know much about the art form – being a bit more mono-not-aware than mono no aware – back in the day. So I’m excited to change that. Yukako explains to us that wagashi is much more than just a sweet treat. It is also a traditional, edible expression of Japan’s rich aesthetic. She tells us they are typically enjoyed with tea, particularly during the Japanese tea ceremony, “Embodying the harmony, respect, and mindfulness central to Japanese tradition” she says.
A Brief History of Wagashi
Wagashi has a history dating back over a thousand years. Early Japanese sweets were simple, and made from natural ingredients such as nuts, fruits, and chestnuts. That was until the 8th century, when trade with China introduced new ingredients like sugar and rice flour, and wagashi began to evolve. By the Heian period (794–1185), sweet rice cakes (mochi) and fruit-based desserts had become popular among the aristocracy.
The Edo period (1603–1868) marked a significant turning point in the development of wagashi. With the discovery of sugarcane in Japan, the confectioners of Kyoto, Tokyo, and Kanazawa perfected the craft, creating intricate sweets that remain popular today. These sweets not only became integral to Japanese festivals and celebrations but also found a special place in the Japanese tea ceremony.
Wagashi in the Japanese Tea Ceremony (Chanoyu)
The tea ritual is based on mindfulness, simplicity, and a deep connection to nature. Before drinking the bitter green tea (matcha), participants are offered wagashi to cleanse the palate and prepare for the tea’s robust flavor. “The sweetness of wagashi perfectly balances the tea’s astringency, creating harmony between taste and experience”, Yukako says.
The selection of wagashi used in tea ceremonies is highly symbolic and reflects the season, reinforcing mono no aware. Yukako tells us: “For instance, cherry blossom-shaped wagashi may be served in spring, while snowflake designs might appear in winter. The careful choice and preparation of wagashi contribute to the ceremony’s aesthetics as well as their meaning.”
Seasonal Wagashi
Spring (Haru): Pastel-coloured wagashi featuring cherry blossoms (sakura) symbolise renewal and the fleeting nature of life.
Summer (Natsu): Cool hues and shapes like water droplets or morning dew evoke a sense of refreshment.
Autumn (Aki): Earth tones and motifs such as fallen leaves and chestnuts celebrate the harvest and changing foliage.
Winter (Fuyu): Whites and deep reds, often depicting snow or plum blossoms, reflect the cold beauty of winter.
The seasonal approach connects wagashi to nature and the passage of time, embodying a mindfulness that aligns with the principles of the tea ceremony.
The Process of Making Wagashi
The creation of wagashi requires skill, precision, and an artistic eye. Despite the simplicity of the ingredients – typically rice flour, beans, sugar, and water—master artisans spend years perfecting their techniques. Some of the most popular types of wagashi include nerikiri, mochi, and daifuku.
Nerikiri: Made from white bean paste (shiro-an) and mochi flour, nerikiri is shaped by hand or with specialised tools to resemble flowers, fruits, or animals. Its delicate, sculptural form makes it a popular choice for tea ceremonies.
Mochi: A chewy, sticky rice cake, mochi is iconic in Japanese sweets. It can be enjoyed plain or filled with red bean paste (anko), fruits, or even ice cream.
Daifuku: A variety of mochi filled with sweetened red bean paste or other fillings, daifuku is often paired with seasonal fruits like strawberries.
Regional Variations
Wagashi differs from region to region, each area using its local ingredients and traditions. Kyoto is famous for its refined, elegant sweets like yatsuhashi, while Nagoya is known for uchimono, sweets formed using wooden moulds. Healthier than Western confectionery, Wagashi tends to be lower in fat than Western desserts, as they rarely contain butter, cream, or milk. Many are also plant-based, making them suitable for vegan diets.
Cultural Significance
Wagashi is often enjoyed during Japanese festivals and ceremonies. For example, hishi mochi (diamond-shaped rice cakes) are eaten during the Doll Festival (Hinamatsuri), while kashiwa mochi (oak leaf-wrapped mochi) is consumed during the Boys’ Festival (Tango no Sekku).
Wagashi Today
While the techniques and traditions of wagashi-making are deeply rooted in history, the craft continues to evolve. Contemporary wagashi artisans are experimenting with new ingredients, such as matcha and modern flavours, while still respecting traditional aesthetics. This blend of old and new has allowed wagashi to remain relevant and appreciated by both younger generations in Japan and food enthusiasts worldwide.
Yukako has just returned from wagashi-making workshops in Scandinavia and she explains that International interest in wagashi has grown. Many cafes across the globe now serve wagashi alongside matcha tea.Whether you’re savouring a beautifully crafted nerikiri that reflects the season or biting into a simple, yet delicious mochi, wagashi provides a window into Japan’s rich cultural heritage. Each piece tells a story—of history, nature, and the mindfulness that permeates Japanese life.
For more information or to book a class with the wonderful Yukako contact Be In Japan!
